In this article, we visit two notable museums in Ankara; the Ankara Museum of Painting and Sculpture, and the Ethnography Museum…
A Holistic Perspective on Art in Ankara
Ankara is an important center for everyone who has ever been involved in art. Many artists have walked the streets of Ankara and spent a significant part of their lives here. Compared to Istanbul, Ankara is known as a bureaucratic city, yet for many artists, it has also served as a spiritual retreat. Today, we embark together on a different route in Ankara, following the trail of art.
We are in Kızılay because it is easy and convenient to get from one place to another in Ankara, taking Kızılay as the center. This route, which takes 20 minutes on foot, 6 minutes by taxi, and 14 minutes by bus, offers us numerous shops and old markets to explore. As we move from Kızılay to Yenişehir, we are also tracing a path from the new to the old.
The First Settlement of the Capital: Yenişehir
Yenişehir means ‘newly established city’ in Turkish. For Ankara, Yenişehir took the lead in urbanization efforts after the Republic era. At first, there was no settlement center in Ankara, the war veteran city of Anatolia. The founders of the Republic, who rolled up their sleeves to create a place for settlement, built an entirely new city on the other side of the railway line and named it Yenişehir.
Leaving Yenişehir behind, we arrive at Ulus, which we know from the Ankara Castle. The Ankara Museum of Painting and Sculpture, located on Namazgah Hill, extends before us as a center of art and culture. This historic building, one of the unique examples of the First National Architecture Movement, served as the Turkish Hearths (Türk Ocakları) Central Building in 1927 and gained its identity as a museum in 1980. The stage within the museum is also significant as it was Ankara’s first Culture and Art Hall, where the most famous operettas of the time were performed.
A Structure Witnessing the Firsts of Art and the Republic
We are very eager to meet the artists who shaped Turkish art in this museum, which houses the most special works from the emergence and development periods of Turkish art history before and after the Republic.
This structure, the fourth largest public building constructed during Ankara’s early Republican period, was brought to life after Atatürk admired a watercolor sketch by the era’s most famous architect, Arif Hikmet Bey. In this building, renowned for its rosewood chairs adorned with Turkish motifs, the first opera was staged, and the first language and history congresses were held.
The Museum’s Prized Treasures
The museum features six halls dedicated to permanent exhibitions and houses a collection of 3,601 registered works. In the first section, you will find paintings by artists such as Şeker Ahmet Paşa, Abdülmecid Efendi, Hüseyin Zekai Paşa, Halil Paşa, and Hoca Ali Rıza. The second section showcases works from the Republican era by artists like İbrahim Çallı, Hikmet Onat, and Namık İsmail. The permanent collection is led by notable works such as Osman Hamdi Bey’s “The Arms Dealer,” Vasili Vereshchagin’s “At the Tomb of Timur,” Zonaro’s “Portrait of a Young Girl,” and Emel Korutürk’s “Gratitude to Gazi.” Among the many Turkish artists worth studying are Bedri Rahmi Eyüboğlu, Ratip Tahir Burak, Şevket Dağ, İbrahim Çallı, and Abidin Dino. In addition to paintings, the Museum of Painting and Sculpture also features marbling art, photography, calligraphy, sculpture, printmaking, ceramics, illumination, and Turkish decorative arts.
We wander through all six halls, carefully examining the paintings, marveling at the fine details of the eras, and being astonished by how an artist weaves what the eye sees or the mind imagines onto the canvas. Some paintings truly deserve to be studied while sitting in front of them. We recommend arriving early to this place where time seems to fly by. After spending a long time inside, the garden surrounded by the Ankara landscape will impress you even more. Don’t forget to take a moment on the magnificent stairs and take a photo as a memory of Ankara and art.
A Domed Structure Opening to Culture
Without breaking the spell of the Painting and Sculpture Museum, we turn our direction towards the Ethnography Museum, located within the same courtyard. This massive structure, just 100 meters ahead, was built with the same architect’s mastery. First of all, a huge statue welcomes you before entering the museum. The bronze statue of Atatürk standing on a horse was made by the famous Italian artist Pietro Canonica in 1927.
This rectangular, single-domed building reflects all the characteristics of its era with its walls covered in kufeki stone, marble pediments, and carved ornaments. The staircase, consisting of 28 steps, provides a grand entrance.
This museum, which houses some of the finest examples of Turkish art and lifestyle, holds special significance for the Republic of Turkey. The reason for this is that the inner courtyard was designated as a temporary resting place for Atatürk, and he rested here for 15 years. Which is why, the roof and the area with the pool were enclosed and covered.
The Unique Works of Turkish Art History
As the name suggests, the Ethnography Museum houses examples of Turkish art. Traditional products representing Turkish art include folk costumes, jewelry, shoes, pouches, laces, bundles, bed covers, bridal dresses, groom’s shaving kits, and many more, all collected from various regions of Anatolia, spanning from the Seljuk period to the present day.
The most valuable part of the museum is the collection of carpets and rugs from Uşak, Gördes, Bergama, Kula, Milas, Ladik, Karaman, Niğde, and Kırşehir, each woven with Turkish-specific techniques, materials, and patterns. The museum also houses exquisite examples of Anatolian metalwork, kitchen utensils, Mamluk cauldrons, and rare artifacts from the Ottoman period, including bows, arrows, pistols, swords, monograms, and emblems.
Unique Turkish ceramic porcelains, Kütahya porcelains, distinguished examples of Turkish calligraphy, special examples of Turkish woodwork, and many other folkloric and art history-themed artifacts await visitors.
A Journey to the Past and the Feeling of Belonging
A collection of items carrying the rush of life and the dusty memories of the past… The excitement of a bride, the weapon of a war, a meal prepared, socks that kept a child warm, the door of a religious building opening to prayer… The Ethnography Museum, which represents the study of culture, takes us on a journey to the mystical moments of the past. Cultural museums are always the places that fascinate me the most. The reason is that they take me on a journey to a time I never lived in and offer me the chance to experience that culture.
These two structures, which you have the chance to explore within a 100-meter radius, will offer you entirely new insights into Turkish culture, inform you about Turkish art, and spark a new curiosity within you. Situated on a hill, these museums will reveal and showcase Ankara’s perspective on art.
The Museum of Painting and Sculpture and the Ethnography Museum accept the Museum Card. The Ethnography Museum is open every day, while the Museum of Painting and Sculpture is closed on Mondays. Additionally, you must lock your belongings in the lockers located on the ground floor before entering the museums. Entry with bags, pouches, or similar items is not permitted.
Farewell to the Buildings Where Atatürk Said, “I Never Want to Leave Here”
In Ulus, one of the central places of Anatolian history in Ankara, we took an artistic and cultural look at Turkish life. After a fulfilling day, we find ourselves descending the hill. Unaware of what new surprises Ankara might have in store for us but excited, we contemplate our next route.