The Witnesses of Ankara
Turkey is a vast geography that has served as a capital for various cultures, languages, and religions. From one end to the other, it is possible to experience entirely different stories across this country, with its diverse ethnic origins, distinct histories, and memories.
Turkey’s capital, Ankara, welcomes us with its history, its stance, the witnesses it holds, and the hidden treasures it has preserved from the past to the present. Today, we will discover a different side of Ankara—its role as a host to various religions.
The Architect of Ottoman Aesthetics
Mimar Sinan, the renowned architect of the Ottoman Era, is a world-famous artist. He came to Istanbul during the reign of Yavuz Sultan Selim and rose to prominence during the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent. The Şehzade Mosque is known as his apprenticeship work, the Süleymaniye Mosque as his journeyman work, and the Selimiye Mosque as his masterpiece. However, one of his works that not everyone knows, and that those who do know are often astonished by, is the Cenab-ı Ahmet Pasha Mosque. This mosque is Mimar Sinan’s only work in Ankara.
Mosques, known in the Islamic world as the “house of God,” are places of worship for Muslims. In Islamic culture, mosques hold a special significance as places for gathering and coming together. After a place is conquered, a mosque is quickly built, symbolizing the claiming and acceptance of that land. Building a place of worship is also one of the most effective ways to spread the religion.
Sinan’s Only Work in Ankara
The mosque, known to have been built in 1565, was constructed with Ankara stone. With its single dome, it reflects the Ottoman style. The outer prayer area is covered by marble columns and three separate domes. The central dome is relatively larger, while the domes on either side are smaller. This structure, built with a simple design, stands out with its white marble details. The building has a total of 48 windows, and its mihrab (prayer niche) is adorned with a crown decoration, while the dome interiors are embellished with hand-painted designs.
Because the mosque’s courtyard contains a tomb and a cemetery, the structure is considered a complex (külliye). Cenab-ı Ahmet Pasha served as the Governor-General of Anatolia for 20 years, established close relations with Suleiman the Magnificent, and participated in battles in Konya alongside the Sultan’s sons. For these reasons, it was ordered that a mosque be built in his name by the most prominent architect of the time.
The Ease of Getting Around in Ankara
The Cenab-ı Ahmet Pasha Mosque, located in Ankara’s Altındağ district, is about 10 minutes away by taxi from Kızılay, our designated starting point. It takes approximately 20 minutes by bus or minibus, and about 40 minutes on foot. There is no metro service available in this area.
If you have time, are interested in religious structures, and plan to visit the Altındağ district where old Ankara settlements are located, you should see this unique work of Mimar Sinan in Ankara. Also, nearby are the Ulucanlar Museum and the Museum of Mothers, just a few of the must-see places in Ankara.
A Church in Altındağ: Saint Teresa Church
Now we embark on a completely different journey. A 20-minute walk from the Cenab-ı Ahmet Pasha Mosque in Altındağ takes us to a Catholic Church. Saint Teresa Church is named after Saint Teresa of Lisieux. Located in what was once known as the old Armenian neighborhood, this church was formerly the Saint Clement French College, dating back to 1905. Unfortunately, the entire district suffered extensive damage in the great Ankara fire of 1916.
A new building was constructed on this site in 1928. The ground floor served as the Consulate of the French Embassy, later becoming the office and residence of the French Ambassador, and functioning as a French primary school until 1962. The first floor was entirely transformed into the “Chapel of the French Embassy” by the Assumptionist priest Ludovic Marseille, and it was consecrated in 1929 by Father Ludovic Marseille. The church building was registered as a first-degree urban archaeological site in 1980 and was fully restored in 2002. Today, it operates as a church served by Jesuit priests.
An Empire that Hosts Religions, Languages, Races, and Cultures
It is well-known that the Ottoman Empire hosted many religions, ethnicities, and cultures. It is possible to encounter a church or synagogue in various parts of Turkey. With its special mosaics and stained glass, this church shines like a pearl in one of Ankara’s oldest settlements, welcoming visitors with its blue windows, intricate texture, and the Sunday services held regularly.
I love exploring the mystical fabric of Ankara. It’s enchanting how unexpected streets can lead you to unique structures, historic buildings, or breathtaking views. With just a 10-minute walk, we now turn our path toward Ankara’s only synagogue.
A Synagogue Open for Worship for 750 Years
We are in Altındağ. This building, open for worship and used for 750 years, is the only Jewish synagogue in Ankara, located in the Jewish neighborhood. Unfortunately, this area, which has witnessed history in the heart of Ankara, is at risk of being forgotten.
It is known that there was a Jewish community in Ankara during the time of the Roman Emperor Augustus. During the Ottoman period, Jews brought from Spain and Portugal began to find and live alongside the Jews who had survived from the Byzantine era to the present day.
Dusty Roads and Forgotten Buildings
The exact date of the synagogue’s construction is unknown, but it is believed to have been built by Ankara’s first local Jews. This single-story stone building is large enough to accommodate a few hundred people. The building is dome-less and features a hexagonal coffered ceiling. It is surrounded by a high courtyard wall, giving it a somewhat forgotten and abandoned feeling, reminiscent of an old neighborhood.
Once, this area was filled with people celebrating Shabbat and other special occasions, but now it is almost deserted. The ornate and grand structures of that era are nearly abandoned, left to decay. Each building you pass has its own character and, clearly, a distinct story to tell.
From the Past to the Present, and the Future
We are heading toward our final stop on the religious sites tour: Kocatepe Mosque. This location is very close to Kızılay. You can reach it in about 40 minutes on foot from the Jewish Synagogue or in 10 minutes by taxi. Known as the largest mosque in Ankara, Kocatepe Mosque does not have the historical significance of other places of worship.
Construction of the mosque began in 1967, but the project was deemed too modern, leading to a change in architects, and it took a full 20 years to complete. Initially, the mosque attracted attention for its similarity to Mimar Sinan’s works, as it was built in the style of classic Ottoman architecture. This massive place of worship, with a capacity of 15,000 people, is also known for hosting the funerals of significant figures in the country.
One of the Symbols of Ankara
Upon entering the mosque, you are greeted by a massive chandelier. The stained glass windows, ceiling decorations, pulpit, and mihrab of the mosque are all quite magnificent. Especially during the candlelit nights, which are considered significant in the Islamic world, a large crowd gathers here for worship. The nighttime illumination is stunning. It is one of the iconic structures of Ankara, where the funeral prayers of important figures and politicians in the country are held.
If you are interested in religious structures, enjoy visiting places of worship, and have a keen interest in Islamic architecture, you definitely should visit Kocatepe Mosque.
Instead of a historical and cultural tour in Ankara, today we visited places of worship from different religions. These structures, referred to as the house of God, embody both the cultures and histories of their respective faiths. A decoration, a wall, a stone, or a stained glass window tells us a lot, providing insights into that era and witnessing entirely different memories. We conclude the day by reflecting on the stories of people we don’t know and have never met.