Ankara’s Journey to Becoming the Signature Capital
Ankara, the fortress of the Republic and Anatolia, has also been used for centuries as a route extending westward. Numerous inns and caravanserais were established along this path. Although these structures have not survived to the present day, Ankara continues to serve as a stopover point.
In the early years of the Republic, Ankara underwent significant structural and visual changes after becoming the capital. The presence of the Grand National Assembly of Turkey and various embassies in the city gave it even greater importance. For these and many other reasons, Ankara became a hub for politicians, artists, and wealthy individuals looking to invest in the country.
Today, we will explore the mansions of Ankara, taking in all the historical and cultural essence the city has to offer. Mansions tell the stories of cities. These structures, which bridge the past and the future, provide insights into the history and the era in which they were built through their historical significance, while also teaching us much about the care and attention to architecture today.
Mansions are also silent ethnographic treasures. They reveal a society’s structure, way of life, culture, the attractions of the era, and much more, allowing us to make sociological observations. To better understand Ankara, let’s take a closer look at these mansions together.
The Beginning of an Era: Çankaya Mansion
Standing in all its grandeur, Çankaya Mansion is Ankara’s most prestigious residence, serving as the home of presidents for a total of 91 years between 1923 and 2014. Located 5 km south of Kızılay Square, the mansion is situated at a high altitude. Reaching it takes about 50 minutes on foot along a pleasant walking route from Kızılay, or an average of 10-15 minutes by taxi or bus.
The mansion spans a vast area of more than 437 acre, set in a tree-filled and secluded zone closed to the public. Like many mansions, Çankaya Mansion comprises multiple buildings within its grounds. The first structure to draw attention is the Museum Mansion. Built by an Armenian merchant in the 1800s, this building was purchased with donations collected from the public and gifted to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Atatürk lived in this mansion, now a museum, from 1921 to 1932. It stands as a space reflecting his lifestyle, tastes, and work habits.
It is known that Atatürk welcomed and hosted visitors, ambassadors, local and foreign guests, and journalists in this mansion. The museum greets visitors with a metal-paved entrance. In the center of the spacious hall stands a billiard table, and in one corner, a piano. The dining room and ambassador reception room are also located on this level. The upper floor is dedicated to Atatürk. This area includes a large central hall, a study, a library, a bedroom, a living room, and a bathroom, making it the residence where Atatürk spent part of his life.
Presidents Following Atatürk’s Path: The Pink Mansion
The Pink Mansion, built to continue the lifestyle established by Atatürk, is a historic pink-colored structure located right next to Çankaya Mansion. Completed in 1932, the two-story building features three facades lined with Ankara stone and a spacious terrace. Designed with a similar approach, the mansion’s first floor was arranged for hosting guests, while the second floor was designated as the residence.
The most distinctive feature of the land housing these structures is its shelter. It includes a comprehensive and large atomic bunker. Constructed during İsmet İnönü’s presidency in the 1940s, the bunker is located 50 meters behind the mansion building. Designed as a workspace for the President in the event of a nuclear attack during World War II, every detail of the bunker was meticulously planned. The shelter includes a modest bathroom, small dried flowers placed on tables, bathroom slippers, and a barometer from the 1940s.
Designed as a country cottage and left to the Turkish Armed Forces by Atatürk, many important decisions were made, discussed, and detailed in this building. Some of these decisions include the Abolition of the Sultanate, the Abolition of the Caliphate, the Education Union, the Turkish Civil Code, and Women’s Right to Vote and Stand for Election.
Ankara’s Haunted Mansion: Renda Mansion
Located very close to the city center in Çankaya, Renda Mansion is a signature example of early republican-era modernism. Built in the 1920s, the building is known for its use of arches in the eaves and roof windows, as well as the shape of the balcony supported by flying buttresses. The mansion was constructed by a bureaucrat of the time and was used as the Iraqi Embassy in the 1930s.
Currently situated between the former US and German embassies, Renda Mansion is about a 15-minute walk from Kızılay or 7-8 minutes by bus or taxi. In 2007, the mansion underwent restoration in collaboration with the Çankaya Municipality and the Middle East Technical University, and was restructured with the aim of becoming a cultural center.
Architecture and Furniture Museum: Altın Mansion, Merik Mansion
A businessman and engineer Ali Rıza Bozkurt, who passed away in 2018, decided to build a house in memory of his mother. Wanting to build “a house with a story that will last for centuries,” Bozkurt gradually developed a project to bring the architectural, furniture, and cultural heritage from centuries ago into the present. His goal was to remind both local and foreign visitors that they are in a country with a rich history by showcasing these exquisite structures.
After seven years of workshop, with every detail crafted by artisans, the Altın Mansion, also known as Merik Mansion, opened in 2008 as the Private Anadolu Architecture and Furniture Cultural Heritage Museum. Like a hidden gem in Ankara, the mansion is located very close to Bilkent University and is easily accessible by bus or taxi from Kızılay.
In the two-story museum, numerous valuable accessories and furniture used in palaces and mansions between the 17th and 19th centuries are displayed. From chandeliers and ceiling decorations to sinks, gardens, and staircases, every area of the museum is filled with meticulously crafted details by artisans. The museum also houses items belonging to Ottoman sultans that were smuggled abroad illegally after the dissolution of the Ottoman dynasty and were later sold in auction houses in the 1990s. Thanks to the Bozkurt family, these items were purchased and brought back. Among these treasures are hand-carved pieces made by Sultan Abdulhamid II, known as a master furniture maker, seating groups, thrones of Sultan Abdulaziz, and the guest sets used by Sultan Vahdettin in Dolmabahçe Palace, which are just a few of the most valuable artifacts in the collection.
The Past and Present of a House and What They Tell Us
Each mansion reminds us of a different era, with unique stories to tell. Did people live as extravagantly inside them as their grandeur suggests? What decisions were made, which lives were touched, and what role did these mansions play in the future of the country? What legacies have they left for us today?
As we recall these times, which are now only memories, we wonder how many more such houses are hidden in the corners of Ankara. While these houses may not be of the same size or grandeur, they have hosted many bureaucrats, prominent figures of the time, important guests, individuals from domestic and foreign missions, and artists. Today, as we walk these streets, Ankara, with its mansions and houses, once filled a different landscape, offering home and shelter to different people in a completely different era.
As we experience the lifestyles, daily routines, and the spaces created by individuals for rest and relaxation in these mansions, we also gain a historical and cultural perspective. Once again, Ankara bids us farewell with hidden corners, offering thoughts along the way.